Phil Watts Library

The Godfather of Marquette Climbing

While teaching at Northern Michigan University for 38 years, Phil became an internationally acclaimed rock climbing and mountaineering researcher. He authored 111 papers/presentations that are primarily in the areas of rock climbing/mountaineering and Nordic skiing. He was twice selected to give the opening keynote lecture at the International Conference on Science and Technology in Climbing and Mountaineering as well as the keynote address at the 3rd Congress of the International Rock Climbing Research Association.

Locally known as the “Godfather of Marquette Climbing”, he was a catalyst for the climbing scene in Marquette, teaching over a thousand people to climb during university courses, and many more who were introduced to the sport by his students who were affected by his research. Phil was instrumental in bringing the first climbing wall to NMU in 1990, developing the youth climbing program “Toon Busters”, and was the first faculty advisor for the South Superior Climbing Club.

Phil also was a pioneer in developing local climbing crags. Starting in the early 1980’s he discovered and put up many first ascents at the AAA Wall, Cliffs Ridge, Slugg’s Bluff, Negaunee Slab, Incarceration Crag, and Phil’s Hill.

In 1996, Phil authored the Outdoor Pursuits Series book Rock Climbing.

Phil was also a co-founder of the Upper Peninsula Climbers Coalition, which is an Access Fund affiliate. He was the UPCC’s first President and during his time on the board, Phil led the effort to securing access to Presque Isle, and the recent acquisition of the now climber owned Slugg’s Bluff.

A very detailed and organized person, Phil kept extensive notes on all of his climbing adventures big and small. In 2022, he did a limited publishment of “A partially complete story of the climbing side of his life”, Collecting Butterflies: Four Decades of Climbing Notes Volume 1 and 2.

Phil also was an accomplished mountaineer with a passion for the North Cascades. From the mid 80’s through the 2000’s saw Phil on the summit of many of the Cascade’s classic peaks.

Phil will always be remembered in our hearts for, his kindness, a lover of pancakes, mochas and ice cream, but most of all, a great friend, mentor, educator, and leader to our climbing community. He will be sorely missed.

In typical Phil fashion, Phil donated his climbing guidebook collection to the Upper Peninsula climbing community which will be permanently stored at Down wind Sports in Marquette. The U.P. climbing community will be forever in debt to Phils dedication and generosity to Upper Peninsula climbing.

Phils kindness and desire to share his passion has inspired many others climbers to follow in his footsteps and and this collection continues to grow with the support of the community that Phil loved so much.